First Look at Rise – The TWTX Review

We’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Rise, the French Salon de Soufflé and Wine Bar that just opened in Creekside Park. Rise started in Dallas, and the Woodlands location is their only one in the Houston Area.

Under the capable direction of Chef Cameron Achee, Rise focuses on that miraculous and oh-so-French dish: The soufflé. Rise’s tightly edited menu offers both the expected sweet soufflés and the far more unusual savory versions. Non-soufflé dishes are available as well, but if you’re going to Rise, a soufflé should be in your immediate future. Fun fact: Chef Camron is the son of WAFer Elizabeth Achee, who helpfully kept us apprised of the restaurant’s progress during construction.

Rise is a brand-new restaurant, and we visited on their second day of operation. We were impressed by how smoothly their team was executing; kudos to the training staff for preparing the front and back of the house.

Rise is a wonderful conundrum in the restaurant world. On one hand, it’s casual and comfortable; a place you can stop by after a workout for a quick and healthy bite. On the other hand, it’s distinctly French and upscale. The service is polished, the atmosphere is elegantly rustic, and the experience is memorable. Rise is a perfect date night restaurant.

Not being familiar with Rise’s offerings, we happily followed the suggestions of Chef Cameron, and let him take us on a journey through their offerings.

The Soups

We began the meal with a pair of soups. Rise’s signature Marshmallow Soup. A subtle bisque of carrot and tomato were topped with savory “marshmallows” – actually petite soufflé of goat cheese. This dish is elegant and understated.

Rise’s spin on French Onion Soup is a masterclass in the classic preparation. A bold, rich onion stock was embellished with blocks of fresh bread, and enrobed in a blanket of melty Gruyère. The result is hot and delicious, and as good as any French Onion soup we’ve ever tasted. It’s a must have.

The Savory Soufflés

Next Up were the savory soufflés. Chef Cameron presented three.

The classic Jambon & Gruyère Soufflé was a delight. The rich, soulful flavor of the salted meat balanced beautifully with the slightly sweet, hard cheese, and it was masterfully presented in the light, airy soufflé. This dish tasted like brunch in every bite, and made us wonder if Rise would consider doing a weekend brunch service. (They’re lunch and dinner only at this point.)

Vegetarians should proceed directly to the stunning Cauliflower & Brie Soufflé. The dense, creamy cheese balanced beautifully with the gently herbal cauliflower, and the resultant flavor was very good. We didn’t expect to like this one nearly as much as we did.

Chef Cameron went to culinary school in Louisiana, and earned his stripes at Galatoire’s, the New Orleans Old Line restaurant that is the Grande Dame of creole cuisine. His off-the-menu Blue Crab Soufflé pays tribute to his deft touch with Creole cookery; the pillow-like creation is redolent with the flavor of crab, gently seasoned with Creole flavors, and is a marvelous tribute to the Crescent City.

The Desserts

No fine meal is complete without dessert, and Chef Cameron presented a trio of his favorites. Of course we started with a sweet soufflé; in this case the off-the-menu Strawberry Soufflé. Decadently light, delicate, and gloriously balanced, the not-too-sweet strawberry sauce was a perfect accoutrement.

Demonstrating that Rise isn’t limited to soufflés, the Classic Crème Brûlée was a flawlessly executed take on the iconic dessert. The glassy sheet of caramelized sugar shattered in a most satisfying manner, and the creamy custard had a becoming vanilla undertone that took it to the next level. Nicely done, Chef.

We managed to save room for a bite of the beautiful Apple Tarte. Slivers of crisp Granny Smith Apple were baked in puff pastry and crowned with ribbons of caramel and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, then dusted with powdered sugar. This decidedly French spin on the all-American apple pie was a perfect ending to a very impressive meal.

Rise is a great addition to the Woodlands dining scene, and is open daily. We’re looking forward to returning and sampling more of Chef Cameron’s delicious cuisine. Elizabeth, your boy has done good.