Tapas “Street Food” Tasting at Amrina – Review

Amrina is one of the most exciting new restaurant openings in the Houston area in the 2020’s. Surpreet Singh and Preet Paul Singh have created a thoroughly modern restaurant serving a distinctly elevated take on Indian cuisine. Chef Jassi Bindra is the managing partner, and his vision of what Indian food can become has earned him a Michelin plate and recognition from the Hindustani Times as one of the World’s Best Indian Chefs. General Manager Giorgio Ferrero has assembled an all-star service team and penned a wine list that is destined for Wine Spectator recognition. The space is luxurious, modern, and composed with the kind of taste that demonstrates time spent in great restaurants and clubs around the world.

The Scene

We have previously sampled dishes from the menu, and are seriously impressed by the elegance and layered complexity of Chef Jassi’s cuisine. We were excited to introduce our friends to this impressive establishment; they know good food and wine, and we were anxious to see if they would be as impressed as we were with Amrina.

We met up at Amrina on a Saturday night, and found the scene hopping. The restaurant was buzzing with activity. The bar was packed. Entertainers were gliding among the patrons, playing violin and saxophone in accompaniment to the cool beats that set the stage.

This didn’t feel like the Woodlands. What it reminded me of was Miami, specifically one of the upscale restaurants in South Beach, where the scene was as important as the food, and the crowd was there for the total experience. The Woodlands has some excellent restaurants, but nothing like this.

We sat at the bar, and enjoyed expertly crafted cocktails. We were frankly astonished by the liquor on display at Amrina’s bar; hard-to-please whiskey drinkers now have new spot with an incredible selection to explore.

But we were getting hungry. And we were anxious to explore Chef Jassi’s cuisine. Surpreet’s dazzling bride Nav suggested that we try the tapas service, and we have learned to follow this formidable woman’s suggestions. We love how the entire Singh family is present and engaged; these warm, gracious people are the backbone of Amrina.

We were seated at the sleek tapas bar, framing the open kitchen and offering a panoramic view of the goings on. We were presented with the tightly curated menu, with two options: Vegetarian or Non-Vegetarian. Honoring our ancestors who fought their way to the top of the food chain, we chose the Non-Veg option. We met Chef Madhav Bahuguna, the chef who would be explaining, preparing, and overseeing our meal.

For the crucial question of a wine paring, our friend (a wine connoisseur with far more wine knowledge than I’ll ever have) huddled with Giorgio and came up with a bottle that played well with the entire menu. The maestro himself presented the bottle, and our resident expert declared it acceptable. We’ve known Giorgio for years, and the man has never steered us wrong.

The selection was a 2018 Alta Mora Etna Rosso, a 94 point, medium-bodied Sicilian red, with lovely fruity overtones and nice minerality on the finish. It drank like a Bordeaux, and that’s never a bad thing in our eyes. Georgio demonstrated once again that he knows his wines, and he knows what we like. If you have any doubt about which wine to pair with your meal, do not hesitate to ask for his recommendation.

Next, each person in our party was presented with something we’ve never received at a restaurant: A horn.

We were more than slightly perplexed, and our server stepped in and provided explanation. It turns out that when in India, street food vendors rarely have fixed locations. Instead of yelling, a horn is honked when a patron is trying to get the vendor’s attention, wanting the next savory morsel to enjoy.

We were instructed to honk the horn when we were ready for the next course to begin. Until all four of our horns honked, the course preparation would not begin. This was a brilliant idea; guests are empowered to set the pacing of the multicourse experience, and will never feel rushed by the server.

We thought this nod to traditional Indian street food culture was nothings short of delightful, and it demonstrates the attention to detail that has been applied to the entire experience at Amrina.

The Courses

We each honked our horns, and the meal began. Chef Madhav meticulously assembled the first course at his table side station; his focus and attention to detail was nothing short of remarkable.

First up we were presented with two walnut-sized spheres, perched atop a bed of uncooked lentils. Called Golgappi, we were instructed to devour each one in a single bite.

Following instructions, we were met with an explosion of flavor. The crispy sphere was filled with a bright, citrusy liquid, and the sweetly acidic flavor burst into the mouth. The contrast between the crispy shell, and the sweetly balanced liquid was very pleasing; we were glad that there was a second sphere waiting to be popped, and we did so posthaste.

Smiles were evident all around our group. Chef Jassi had surprised and delighted us.

We couldn’t wait for the next course. Four horns honked in quick sequence.

After watching the preparation at a tableside station, the next course arrived. Anda Curry. We are a fan of a variety of curries, but we’ve never experienced one like this. Molecular gastronomy techniques created a light, airy creation that was redolent with gentle floral aromas and was spiced with tremendous restraint; the texture was that of a delicate, etherial custard.

The flavor profile was savory rather than sweet, although back notes of sweetness were certainly present. The overall feeling was of warmth and comfort, even though this is a dish that none of us had ever tasted before. The contrast to the bright flavors of the previous course could not have been more dramatic; Chef Jassi was taking us on an unexpected journey, and we were delighted to be along for the ride.

After a brief respite, one member of our party honked their horn, and three more honks followed.

In short order a beautiful dome appeared, with a colorful creation nestled atop. Tuna Chat Bhel. Chopped raw tuna (sushi grade, of course) crowned a disc of avocado, granny smith apple, and delicate desi spices. The result was a savory course that was rich with the aroma and flavor of the sea, balanced with the creamy avocado and the sweet acidic zing of the apple.

Chef Jassi’s mastery of seafood was clearly evident in this dish. The flavor of the ocean was present but did not overpower, the saltiness was expertly offset with sweet, sour, and creamy notes. We’re already craving another serving of this delicious creation.

Giorgio’s wine pairing really shone with this course. The medium-bodied red, with overtones very similar to a good bordeaux, complemented but did not overshadow the complex flavors of the Chat. Four enthusiastic honks rang out; it was hard to believe we were only halfway through this experience.

The next course was presented, and we were unsure what to expect. A triangle of toasted bread, sealed all around: Chowpatty Sandwich. Chowpatty (traditionally “chau-pati”) means “four channels”.

Biting into this distinctly modern sandwich revealed the chef’s take on the classic Chicken Tikka, a staple of Indian cuisine around the world. Chef Jassi’s version was layered and complex; a touch of heat from fresh chilis, overtones of ginger and garlic, and a whiff of cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Dabbing it into the mint chutney brought the brightness of the mint to the party, and the sour pickled onion slid onto the palate, gracefully completing the chef’s vision. In less capable hands this sandwich would have been unremarkable, but the chef’s skillful combination of complementary flavors paid tribute to the Chowpatty tradition.

A sip of the red provided another graceful counterpoint to this savory course, and after a much-needed stretch, we honked our horn, followed shortly by three others honks. We were all game to see what was next.

The penultimate course reminded me immediately of a bowl of Texas chili. Lamb Keema Tak A Tak with Mathri is a mouthful of a name, and it carried a compelling fragrance. A savory curry of minced lamb was earthy, profoundly meaty, and expertly spiced; it was reminiscent of a Texas chili, but with multiple notes that placed its origin clearly in the Subcontinent, not the Permian Basin. Adding the freshly chopped veg (onion, tomato, and cucumber) brought a tangy brightness to the rich soulful lamb curry, and the result was incredibly satisfying comfort food.

Dishes like this one remind us that our varied culinary traditions share so much. I can’t imagine any Texan who loves chili doing anything other than devouring this and asking for more. We honked our four horns for the last time, anxiously awaiting the final course of the evening.

The server swept in, and gracefully collected our now-silent horns. We were sad to see them go; they were a delightful part of this impressive culinary adventure. The meal was nearly over, and the final dish was presented. Rose Makhan Malal. This light, indulgent dessert is a milky cream with almonds, hints of rose petal, pistachio, and a touch of saffron. The mousse-like texture’s delicate and airy consistency provided a sophisticated finish to a utterly indulgent, six-course meal. A heavy dessert would have left us tired; this dish was refreshing and had us anxious to experience what the night had to offer.

Six courses. Six dishes that were each excellent on their own, but together took us through a journey of Indian street food, re-imaged by a master chef with tremendous skill, training and experience in the art of Indian cuisine.

Conclusions

We sat down to this meal not knowing what to expect, and left being utterly impressed by the care and complexity that went into this Tapas-style “street food” tasting menu. While we appreciate the respectful nod to the influence of Indian street food in these dishes, this elevated tasting experience has about as much in common with a street food meal as a performance at Carnegie Hall has with a sidewalk busker.

Service was impressive as well. Our server, Amber, was on top of her game. Our needs were anticipated, and any requests we made were swiftly taken care of. Chef Madhav Bahuguna executed and presented Chef Jassi Bindra’s cuisine flawlessly. His explanations were instrumental in our navigating through the cuisine.

We were also seriously impressed with the value of this multi course tasting meal. At a cost of $60 per person ($50 for the vegetarian version) this represents a remarkable value for such an elevated dining experience. If you want to utterly impress that special someone without breaking the bank, this experience has our highest recommendation.